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Downrigger extra bait


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I know some will think this is crazy.  Let me start by saying I will only do this walleye trolling, definitely not trout and salmon.   And also, I run fixed cheaters also for those who are going to say just do that, I do.   I run chamberlain releases on my riggers so my release is above the ball.  This leaves the eyelet on the tail of my ball open.  I was thinking about running a worm harness directly off of this with a 1-2ft piece of 25-30lb fluorocarbon with a snubber between it and the ball.  On my fish hawk rigger I have a good 8-10 inches between the release and ball, I think this will help prevent tangles.  My hopes is to possibly pick up a couple hitch hikers maybe every time I bring the ball up.   I see them come to the ball on my lowrance, so I figured what could it hurt, as long as I can keep it from tangling on the way down of course.  What are people's thoughts, anyone ever tried this?  I talked to one older guy on Erie that says he's done it and it works so I figured what the heck might be worth a try.

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Big sheepshead, catfish or laker would be interesting too.  How would you net on a 2 or 3 foot lead?  I see more minus than positives with this program.  Could be a good way to stuff a downrigger cable into a prop-things get real interesting when that happens.

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I have an extension net that goes to 10-12'   I don't think a 3 ft lead will be a problem.   Unless it's a 5+ lbr ill grab the leader and flip them in the boat.   I'm more worried about tangles than anything.   Steelies I'd be concerned if it was up higher but a laker or big sheephead may cause a problem.  What can it hurt to try.   I made a nice long snubber to use as a shock absorber so they don't crack off on the initial strike.  I think of I can keep if untangled I can get them in without a problem 

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I think it could work, although you wouldn't know when something hit it. As long as you check bait often, you just might pick up a straggler. It never hurts to have an extra line in the water. 

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Just wondering what the legality of this method is! As this isn’t a rod and reel or a hand line ....sounds like desperation to me!


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Where do the regs say rod and reel can be a downrigger crank and boom? You'd just be running stranded wire, BIG inline weight, and a short leader. As long as you weren't over your rod limit, i think you'd be legal.

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Where do the regs say rod and reel can be a downrigger crank and boom? You'd just be running stranded wire, BIG inline weight, and a short leader. As long as you weren't over your rod limit, i think you'd be legal.

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The rigger would probably be classified as a rod and reel wouldn't it? Like those deep drop electric ocean reels?

No idea just an interesting concept.....

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The rigger would probably be classified as a rod and reel wouldn't it? Like those deep drop electric ocean reels?

No idea just an interesting concept.....

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I meant to say can't be classified as a rod and reel.

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I'm honestly not sure of the legality.  I don't think the downrigger assembly counts as a rod and reel, if this were the case guys out trolling would be forced to count them in the rod limit, this has never been the case as far as I know.   Technically this method doesn't seem any different to me than running a fixed cheater on a rigger line.  I'm just trying to maximize baits in the water without going over the rod limit thats all.  Again, I know it's a risk of a tangled mess but I would never know without trying.  Was just interested if anyone may have done this successfully to guide me what's the best way to do it.   If it tangles then I know it's an idea for the "not feasible" pile hahaha.

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I'm honestly not sure of the legality.  I don't think the downrigger assembly counts as a rod and reel, if this were the case guys out trolling would be forced to count them in the rod limit, this has never been the case as far as I know.   Technically this method doesn't seem any different to me than running a fixed cheater on a rigger line.  I'm just trying to maximize baits in the water without going over the rod limit thats all.  Again, I know it's a risk of a tangled mess but I would never know without trying.  Was just interested if anyone may have done this successfully to guide me what's the best way to do it.   If it tangles then I know it's an idea for the "not feasible" pile hahaha.
If the rigger has its own lure and hooks, it should be classified as a rod & reel. Of the lure and hooks are on a separate line, then it shouldn't. I know Ohio gets very specific about how many single or treble hooks can be on any given rod & reel.

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If the rigger has its own lure and hooks, it should be classified as a rod & reel. Of the lure and hooks are on a separate line, then it shouldn't. I know Ohio gets very specific about how many single or treble hooks can be on any given rod & reel.

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I believe also ny has a hook "point" rule....and I agree once hook is attached it's counted to the rod limit....at least one would think

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I just checked, it is 15 hook points per line, even with a 3 treble hook stick bait and (2) 3 hook worm harnesses I would still be under by 3 hook points
I guess if you thought about it....how many fixed cheaters could you hook to a rigger line? Be a long line for walleye.

I believe it's a similar concept to a Seth Green rig for lake trout....(I think lol) would just be electric reel instead of manual

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Not very sporting in my opinion.

How much fun is it to reel in a fish on a 200 lb test steel line with no pole.

There is a 3 pole limit per man on Great Lakes, so it would count as 1 of your 3 if it's even legal.

I don't think I would want to try to explain that to a game warden.

I also know an old timer who does it and I think he is a greedy douch bag.

Who needs a fish that bad ?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Turn on you reel clicker.

Back off you drag until dipsey starts moving out slowly.

Go do something else while checking on your line counter every once and a while.

I usually start setting up my other dipsey rod.

When you get depth you want, start tightening drag until reel just stops clicking.

Listen for additional fast clicking (doesn't always happen by the way), you probably caught something.

Repeat

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Turn on you reel clicker.
Back off you drag until dipsey starts moving out slowly.
Go do something else while checking on your line counter every once and a while.
I usually start setting up my other dipsey rod.
When you get depth you want, start tightening drag until reel just stops clicking.
Listen for additional fast clicking (doesn't always happen by the way), you probably caught something.
Repeat
X2 normally both dipsys heading out both riggers go down stop dipays. Works great

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Let the dipsys out with the clicker On, this will allow the dipsy to slowly reach the desired depth and prevent the diver from getting ahead of the harness without tangling...


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